Dog Reports

Archive for November, 2009

Do you have a destructive chewer? Does it seem there is no end to your dog’s energy? Do you feel guilty leaving your dog home alone for hours? Does your dog soil in the house despite all housebreaking efforts?

Rest assured, you are not alone. More importantly, there are solutions to your problems.

While there is an abundance of information about these common issues, many dog parent’s still fail in their efforts.

At Canine Kingdom, we know this is not the dog parent’s fault, because the right advice and the most effective products are difficult to find.

For example, studies have shown that when chewing is directed toward objects that are acceptable, less energy is left for objects that are not, such as the leg of your antique dining table. Many dog parents do realize that chew toys help to reduce the amount of chewing on the ‘wrong’ things, such as shoes and fingers. However, many dog parents do not solve chewing problems with toys because they find that either their dogs are not ‘interested’ in the chew toys, or they chew them up in 30 seconds, still ready to take on the rest of the home.

At Canine Kingdom we provide problem-solving products that work, and our customer service team will make sure that you know how to use our products, and are completely satisfied with your results.

Proven training advice coupled with the right tools enables dogs and people to live together in harmony.

And so…Canine Kingdom announces the Top Ten Problems – and provides the Best Products for solving them.

#1 Chewing

KONG

The Kong is the safest, most chew-proof item on the market today and has received the Canine Kingdom Seal of Approval.

Think you know about Kongs? Think again! Many people don’t know the clever ways Kong Toys solve serious chewing problems.

Kongs can be stuffed with delectables – dogs just can’t resist them. If you freeze a stuffed Kong it can take hours for even an avid chewer to get to every tidbit in the Kong. Hours of fulfilling entertainment – hours that don’t include munching on the couch pillows.

Tired dogs are less likely to chew on your new Dolce & Gabbana pumps. The Kong has been designed to entice your dog’s innate prey drive. When you throw a Kong it hits the ground and bounces around unpredictably. Bring out the hunter in your dog. A Kong on a rope is perfect for fun fetching and a proven way to burn up excess energy.

See our article on exactly how to use the Kong Food puzzle in our Protocol Center.

Give your dog a chew toy that is safe and as indestructible as possible. There are so many chew toy products on the market today. Many of them can be dangerous and even fatal. Despite what the manufacturers state on packaging, all chew toys should be inspected regularly for damage and wear. Always choose a chew toy that is appropriately sized for your dog. A toy that is too small can be swallowed and cause choking. Powerful chewers can devour some inappropriate chew toys, possibly resulting in impactions and digestive tract perforations.

#2 Too much energy!

The Long Lead

Most dogs have more energy than their parents would like. Unspent energy can lead to unwanted behaviors such as jumping, chewing, digging, and barking. Exercising your dog on a regular basis is as good for your dog as it is for you. Learn your dog’s optimal exercise level. When your dog is relaxed, he has reached that state.

Many pet parents are limited in their choice of safe exercise areas. Likewise, most dogs do not have a totally reliable recall if they are let loose in an area with many distractions. Using a long lead ensures your dog’s safety yet allows him to burn up energy. Dogs can jump, sniff, run and explore without the restraint of a short leash.

When learning to use a long lead, it is best to start out in quiet, large, tree-less areas. Soon, your dog will learn the distance of his freedom.

Incorporate some sit-stay lessons into your walks. A thinking dog uses up as much energy as a running dog. Toss a Kong a few feet from your dog while in a sit-stay position. Release him to fetch after a few seconds. Treats and verbal praise follow. Great fun for you and your dog and an enjoyable way to teach her an important control lesson.

#3 Pulling on a Leash

Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness

Far too many dog parents forego walking with their dog because of leash pulling. Neck collars, despite their design and material, all put pressure on the dog’s trachea and may cause permanent physical damage. Traditional harnesses, that have leash connections on the top of the harness on the dog’s back, can actually encourage dogs to pull harder because of the opposition reflex. That is the reflex that makes sled dogs do what they do—pull.

The Gentle Leader Easy Walk™ Harness redirects the pressure through the unique front leash attachment. A patent pending martingale closure tightens slightly across the chest and shoulder blades when your dog attempts to pull forward. When your dog slows down and stops pulling, reward him with treats and verbal encouragements.

When training your dog to walk with a loose leash, first, make sure you run out as much energy as possible in your backyard or home. Initially, put the leash on your dog in your home and ‘take your walk’ around the house. Reward him with treats and praise when he walks without leash tension. Gradually move your walks to quiet areas where there are few distractions such as other dogs or critters. Repeatedly reward your dog when he is walking with a loose leash. Increasingly, walk to places where your dog will see or meet other dogs, people or wild animals. Remember to continue the treats and praise. Soon, both you and your dog will enjoy your walks together – without pain or distress to either of you.

The unique design of the Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness is easy to put on and has easy adjustment buckles to ensure a proper fit.

#4 Barking

Dog Door

‘Nuisance’ barking, caused by loneliness, boredom, stress from being home alone, or ‘commenting’ on the goings on around the house is often relieved with the ability to go in and outside, at will, to a safe and secure enclosed yard.

There are many dog doors to choose from. We chose the Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door, as its unique technology allows your pet to enter and exit safely, without the threat of other animals or people using the door. The Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door uses a small infra-red collar tag that signals the door to unlock for your pet and only your pet. The Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door locks in both directions preventing young children from leaving the home and other animals from entering or leaving. It runs on batteries so if there is a power outage, the door still works.

Allowing your dog access to the inside as well as outside, combined with a relaxing in-home setting, a digging pit outside, and a NON-citronella bark collar are often successful in stopping barking problems. For this and more information on dogs home alone, don’t miss our E-book “Creating a Better Life for the Home Alone Dog”.

#5 Housetraining

Penthouse Potty

In certain situations, a dog just must have an indoor toilet. Is your dog getting on in age and having ‘mistakes’? Is your little dog sometimes unreliable in his housetraining habits? Do you live in a 6th floor walkup and the thought of a dog walk at 2:00 a.m. is not that appealing? Has a new puppy joined your household?

The Penthouse Potty is the answer to these problem situations and more. Dogs can ‘hold it’ for only so long. So many variables determine how often a dog must eliminate. What is known about dogs is that they do determine where to ‘go’ by their sense of smell. If a dog learns to eliminate in the home on your Oriental rug or on your teak floors, he may very well choose that spot again and again because it has been ‘marked’ with his odor.

Train your dog to go in one place when the need arises – the Penthouse Potty. If you know there will be times when your dog may not get to the outdoors to eliminate, consider the Penthouse Potty. Your dog can happily go to an ‘approved’ area and the rest of your home will stay fresh and clean.

#6 Arthritis

Pet Wellness Bed

There’s no reason for any dog to suffer from the pain of arthritis. Pain can have a tremendous impact on your dog’s quality of life.

A heated dog bed? Absolutely! Heat and Massage make this therapeutic bed the best choice for arthritis pain all year long. Many arthritic dogs show increased signs of pain when the temperatures dip, humidity rises or barometric pressure drops. The plushy loft, the gentle heat and the massage functions of the Pet Wellness Bed provide a comfortable and therapeutic refuge for your dog.

The first thing you notice about our Wellness Bed is the 3″ thick orthopedic foam. When your dog plops down for a nap, his body is cushioned, protecting further damage to the joints and bones. The gentle heat relaxes tense muscles that surround achy joints, helping your dog’s pain related stress.

Massage is an effective way to manage arthritis pain. The massage feature of the Wellness Bed can help improve joint movement, relax tense muscles, and stimulate the flow of blood and nutrients to the skin and underlying tissues. What’s more, it just feels good, and the relaxation it brings can help break the cycle of pain and stress that often goes along with arthritis The Pet Wellness Bed provides three beneficial features that will enhance your dog’s life – cushiony supportive softness, gentle heat and therapeutic massage.

See your dog’s health care professional to learn about arthritis and forms of treatment and palliative care available today.

#7 Boredom

KongTime

Sometimes, you must leave your dog home alone. Wouldn’t it be great if you— and your dog—could feel good about it? Canine Kingdom introduces KongTime—all day entertainment for the home-alone dog.

Stuff soft foods inside a Kong Toy and what do you have? Magic. Your dog will happily chew and lick the Kong Toy, trying to get out every last morsel. It’s fun!

Our clients call KongTime ‘Doggy Daycare in a Box’. It was developed for those times when you will be away from home, and your dog, longer than usual. One food-filled Kong just won’t provide enough quality entertainment for your dog. Wouldn’t it be great if a neighbor came by and gave your dog another food-filled Kong to keep him busy?

KongTime automatically dispenses, at a predetermined time, food-filled Kong Toys while you are away. KongTime entertains your dog and gives your dog something to look forward to while you are away.

#8 Dry Skin

Drinkwell Fountain

Many pet parents are concerned about their dog’s dry skin and the resulting itching and flaking. The causes of a dog’s dry skin, just like ours, are primarily environmental.

In general, skin—ours and our dogs’—is driest in winter, when temperatures and humidity levels plummet. But the reverse may be true if you live in desert regions, where summer temperatures can top 110 degrees and humidity levels sink to 10 percent or less. Central air and heating, wood-burning stoves, space heaters and fireplaces all reduce humidity and dry your skin and your dog’s.

We all know that drinking up to eight glasses of water is recommended for people. Water is essential to all living beings—including our dogs. But, like us, dogs sometimes just don’t drink enough water. Without proper hydration, a dog’s skin, just like ours, gets dry and flaky. How can you entice your dog to drink more water?

In nature, moving water is much fresher than stagnant water. The movement constantly breaks the surface tension of the water and draws oxygen from the air into the water. This process is called aeration and it makes water more appealing to drink. Dogs may be drawn by instinct to moving water for this reason.

Some dogs drink water with gusto. But, others have to be coaxed to take just a sip. Developed by a veterinarian for her kidney compromised cat, the DRINKWELL® PET FOUNTAIN filters and aerates continuously moving water to keep it much fresher than standing bowl water – and much more enticing.

#9 Lost Dogs

Roameo GPS Dog Location System

Few situations can be as terrifying as learning that your dog is lost.

Canine Kingdom recommends that you always have ID tags on your dog’s collar and your dog is microchipped. Now that there is a universal system for detecting microchips, there is a much better chance a vet or shelter will find it. Be aware that both tools are passive in finding your lost dog. You are dependent on someone finding, catching, reading your dog’s ID, and returning him to you. Many people who find “stray dogs” keep them, assuming their dog parents don’t want them.

Now there is a far more reliable way to find a lost dog.

GPS technology now enables you to take an active approach to finding your dog. The RoamEO GPS dog location system tracks your lost dog’s movements on an easy to read hand-held screen. You will know where your dog is immediately if he or she escapes from your care.

Canine Kingdom applauds RoamEO for providing a user friendly, no-hidden-cost-approach to actively find lost dogs. There are no other tools to buy, no set up fees, monthly fees, “find” fees or service charges.

The RoamEO has many features, including the ability to track up to three dogs at the same time. The RoamEO also allows you to set up a safe area for your dog. If he leaves the perimeter the RoamEO alerts you immediately.

And, at Canine Kingdom, we offer the lowest cost available.

#10 Dog Fights!

Premier SprayShield

We speak to so many dog parents who describe frightening incidents where they and their dogs have been attacked by loose, marauding dogs. Do not allow yourself, members of your family, or your dog to become a victim of a dog attack. Take a proactive approach and always carry Premier SprayShield.

Many preparations, such as pepper spray and taser-type devices are sold as protection from attacking or threatening animals. But, many trainers agree that some of these products may actually antagonize aggressive animals and they can cause bodily harm.

Stop an attacking animal in its tracks with this highly effective, safe and humane spray. The citronella formula halts low-to-medium-level aggression from dogs, cats, snakes, raccoons, opossums, etc., without harmful side effects. It also won’t injure you, your family or your dog if it accidentally gets sprayed into eyes.

#11 Bonus! Jumping up

FREE!

- Don’t knee or yell at your dog when he greets you with a jump, simply turn away and ignore him until he sits, then slowly greet him, pulling back your greeting if he escalates his excitement.

Want more? Expert advice is available 24/7. For tips, challenges, and tried-and-true solutions, visit us at caninekingdom.com!

Have you ever wondered what “exactly” could be the reason why does your dog bark, pull on the leash, lunge, growl, attack, shiver, whimper, shy away or is dying to play when faced with other dogs that he is not familiar with?
Here are all the reasons:
Â? You don’t have the right timing, right technique, or the right training tool that can get your dog under your complete control. If a certain tool stops working or doesn’t even seem to faze your dog anymore, try another one. Use what works!
Â? You never thought socializing your dog with other dogs was really important or even possible. So you kept putting it off and now you finally admit that this has become a serious issue!
Â? You have been avoiding any dog you came across by changing routes on your walks, or by walking your dog really late at night or super early in the morning.
Â? Your training foundation is weak or even worse, you have no foundation. Meaning, your dog doesn’t even listen to you that well in private or in your home. So why would he all of sudden behave like a perfect angel around dogs that he doesn’t know or doesn’t feel comfortable with?
Â? Your dog USED to be friendly around dogs, but you slacked off on being involved on dog activities, daily walks, etc. And now, all of sudden your dog doesn’t know exactly how to behave around dogs he hasn’t met before.
Â? Your dog, or perhaps the other dog, isn’t spayed/neutered and they are dying to get it on and prove themselves. Jealousy also causes dogs to act aggressive toward one another.
Â? Your dog whimpers to trick you into thinking that all it wants to do is play, and when you get close to the other dog, all of sudden it charges for the kill. Very sneaky!
Â? You keep on patting your dog in an attempt to calm her down and by saying, “It’s OK. It’s okaaaaaaay. Nooooo…seeeee…. It’s a nice doggie.” But this doesn’t send the right message. In fact by doing so, you are “encouraging” your dog to keep on acting aggressively. This might work on some humans, but it never works on dogs. So do not pat or keep on massaging your dog while she is constantly lunging and growling at other dogs. This translates to: “Go ahead. Kill ‘em.” Even if you say “NO” in between, you are still not being crystal clear with your message.
Â? You misread your dog’s or other dogs’ body language. Sometimes when owners hold the leash tightly, this makes the dogs seem bigger, more tense, nervous, dominant and sometimes even a bit aggressive. Often you notice an owner’s dog is completely relaxed, yet the owner acts scared and desperately tries to pull the dog close to her. This makes the dog appear taller, more tense, with his head up and chest out, which reads a very confrontational gesture to other dogs. So please don’t wrap the leash around your hand three times by anticipating a dogfight.
Â? Your dog always lunges and attacks other dogs and doesn’t really know how to behave. Like a barbarian, it’s totally natural to him to act like a maniac. Basically your dog is thinking, “It doesn’t really matter if the other dog is small, big, black, white, friendly or aggressive. I always lose it when I see other dogs. It’s fun and it keeps me alive. I have that spice in me. Rrrrrruf!”
Â? You have a poor attitude and might even be prejudiced or scared of certain breeds. And guess what? Dogs never miss this and will try to protect you or at least try to scare the other dog. Maybe you hate certain breeds and your dog or the other dogs sense it from your energy, body language, or the fact that you totally changed direction, walked on the other side of the street, or picked up your small dog, hiding him from the rest of the world.
Â? Your dog never lost a dog fight in his entire life and always managed to scare, bully and lunge at dogs and actually get away with it. He probably sees himself as undefeated. The bigger the other dog, the more of a challenge; the bigger the fight, the better the pay per view.
Â? Your dog has been attacked by a dog in the past and got injured badly which resulted in him losing trust and confidence in you. You see, when you couldn’t protect your dog from another dog attacking it, your poor dog had to find a way to protect himself. So now it anticipates another dog attack. This is why now he acts tough to scare the other dogs away. Can you blame him?
Â? Certain dogs provoke your dog more than others. See if you can find any pattern. Is your dog getting aggressive more toward males, females, puppies, adults, small dogs, black dogs, white dogs, fluffy dogs with floppy ears, pointy eared dogs, or even dogs that are not neutered. How about their owners? See if you notice any pattern with them. Some dogs love a challenge and prefer to fight the biggest dogs they can find. Some can’t stand the small dogs’ bark, and the fact that they are more spoiled than bigger dogs, and probably see them as Costco’s appetizers.
Â? You’ve been letting your dog constantly mark on walks and thought it was normal and harmless. Now when your dog sees another dog in your neighborhood, he gets upset and tries to defend his territory. Just as your dog is overprotective of your house and your yard, he now thinks he owns the entire neighborhood just because he peed in every corner and every bush around it. How dare another dog walk in his hood!
Â? Something or even someone has irritated your dog, and now he decides to let it out on another dog. Be honest. Don’t YOU pick on someone or at your loved ones when you aren’t in a good mood? There you go. Your dog has learned it from you!
Â? Your dog is dying to play and interact with the other dog, but doesn’t really know HOW. So he gets mad at you, mad at the other dog, at the leash, at your training tool and at the world! This could be a dog that once he manages to get loose, will lick the other dog to death to show his affection. Most dogs when they want to play, just pull on the leash, whimper, wag their tail happily, or maybe bark and whine in excitement. Not your dog. And it’s really hard to know for sure exactly what he’ll do, when he finally manages to get to the other dog. Will he play or go for the kill? And who’s brave enough to find out?
Â? Your dog gets aggressive only when he is leashed. This might be another form of fear or frustration an attempt to keep the other dogs away. Or your dog notices that when he acts this way, you and the other dog owner walking another dog automatically pull back and don’t let them get close to each other. Your dog knows that he can’t do much while being leashed and his movements are limited. Therefore, it’s much safer to act like a maniac. Basically each bark and growl translates to: “Let me go. Let me go, Mommy. I can take him. Let me show you what I can do. Let me put him on the news for you.”
Â? Your dog is using your “other” dog as a shield/back up and knows it gives her more power when they attack as a pack. These dogs may walk politely one-on-one, but never as a team.
Conclusion: One of the biggest mistakes dog owners make is that they automatically assume that if their pooch loves some dogs, that it will remain dog-friendly with all breeds of dogs for the rest of his life. The truth is, some will, but most WON’T. You must be able to get your dog’s full attention around friendly dogs, aggressive dogs, hyper dogs, small dogs, big dogs, fluffy dogs, and male or female dogs.
It’s like a serial killer. They rarely go on a killing spree of their friends or relatives. It’s always the poor complete strangers.

Once people become familiar with electronic training products and use them properly, they find the methodology is proven, efficient, economical, and ethical.

The type of training in which an electronic aid is used is critically important, for it will influence the type of product and methods used. Is the equipment being used to teach a new obedience command, correct some common misbehavior, or is it being used to reinforce another electronic training methodology?

Factors affecting success Before an electronic training tool is used, it is strongly suggested that the entire training situation be re-examined. There are three major considerations in this re-evaluation:

(We believe that all dogs are trainable. Dogs that seem stubborn, or unintelligent, have simply not been trained properly, consistently, or effectively.)

Of these factors, the first two are most important. If training is not successful, in most cases it is because owner education, preparedness, consistency or commitment is lacking. This may be difficult for some owners to accept, but remember that we have invited dogs into our environment. It is our responsibility to teach them in ways they can understand. This is incredibly important, because if an owner has not taken the time, or applied the appropriate techniques properly and consistently, training with an electronic product will not make a difference. It will only confuse even the smartest dog.

There are certain signals that suggest a dog has not been properly trained. In these instances a dog may:

Electronic pet training requires knowledge and skill Why the concern for proper education? Because of the largest variable in the equation – the owner. Let us face it, humans are very unpredictable, as far as dogs are concerned. The response of most owners to the need for correction varies widely, depending on the dog, the training, the situation at hand, and even the mood they happen to be in at the time. This is not conducive to effective training – of any kind.

In most cases, a dog exhibits a behavior in response to some stimulus or distraction. Owners must be careful not to create yet another, different misbehavior by misapplying the correction, or applying it at the wrong time. And, for the safety of the dog, it is unnecessary to correct it for every little thing. Owners must be selective to avoid canine confusion. When applied properly, electronic training can be done successfully. To help understand this, let us examine how people respond to their dog without electronics.

Dog owners respond to their dog in any number of different ways. They may reward their dog by petting, talking, providing food or treats, playing, or letting them sleep on the bed. The list is as long as there are owners on it. These same owners also correct in various ways, including yelling, hitting, throwing things, the use of a chain link training collar, ignoring their dog, not providing food or treats, or isolation in a room, crate, or kennel. This does not imply that all of these forms of reward and correction are acceptable. Only that they are multiple, and that training can be successful under some of these circumstances. So it is with electronic training.

One of the greatest acknowledged advantages of electronic training is that sophisticated electronics do make us humans more predictable. It enhances human consistency, especially as it relates to correction. It also allows humans to easily and conveniently apply appropriate corrections, even when a dog is not within range of traditional (leash and choker collar) correction techniques.

Rules of electronic training As was mentioned earlier, electronic training operates on the same basic principles used in all canine behavior modification: correction, redirection, and reward. Therefore, it is imperative that the dog understands the basics before more sophisticated training begins.

‘Dummy Equipment Effect’: Before electronic training begins, the owner/trainer needs to be comfortable in the use of the device, and the dog needs to be comfortable, as well. Thus it is very important to create the ‘Dummy Equipment Effect’ before beginning.

Dogs are highly intelligent and certainly smart enough to know the difference between the different types of collars being used. They look different. They smell different. They exert different pressures on the neck once they are applied. Even the owner/trainer acts differently with the different collars. In some cases, the owner/trainer is there; in other cases, he is not.

Because all of this is true, it is important to eliminate the equipment itself from the learning process. Here is how.

Before beginning to train with an active electronic collar, the dog should first become accustomed to a deactivated collar (i.e., take the battery out). Even if the dog trainer or dog owner is under pressure to train the dog quickly (e.g., the neighbors are complaining), he still needs to teach the dog that the collar is not something to be feared.

The last thing someone wants to see is the dog cowering when it is being approached with a training collar, electronic or otherwise. By spending just a few days introducing the dog to the collar, other problems can be prevented.

General Rules: All of the general rules of obedience training apply to electronic training as well. In fact, they are probably even more important in electronic training. These guidelines include:

The importance of redirection and reward Electronic training combines several different techniques. Applying a correction is only a small part of a training program. Redirection and praise are far more important.

Why is this methodology important? Suppose there is a dog in a containment system, but every day he charges away and barks at a jogger who is running along outside the established bounds. What should be the desired correction? He should come when he is called, stay in the yard, and stop barking at the jogger. But chasing and barking are perfectly normal in a dog’s natural environment. Only in the human environment are they inappropriate.

Therefore, if the owner/trainer really wants to train the dog under these circumstances, he must first correct at the appropriate time, and consistently. He would do so using an obedience command. So, before beginning more complicated electronic training, it is important that the dog understand basic obedience commands. The trainer/owner must build from a solid foundation provided by these training basics.

In this specific instance, as soon as the dog takes off running, he would be given the ‘Come’ command. That way, when applying correction, it is because the dog did not come on command, not because he is chasing a jogger. Conversely, when the dog does obey immediately, he is praised for responding to the command, not for breaking off his pursuit. This is called redirection.

The risks in electronic training are the many variables. This same situation, handled improperly, can have the opposite effect. It could train the dog to attack joggers. A correction at the wrong time may cause the dog to identify the correction stimulus with the jogger. Dogs are known to have fight or flight responses to such threats. If the dog’s response is to ‘fight,’ joggers beware!

Reward: Unfortunately, some dog trainers/owners put the emphasis on correction. Even in this article, the information is weighted in this area. This is because correction is the area where most training problems occur. Reward is a much easier concept to understand and apply. During training, the dog should constantly and consistently be given a deserved reward – preferably praise and petting – for behavior that meets his training objectives. Again, timing is critical. The dog must be able to make the connection between the reward and the appropriate behavior.

Gratuitous reward is also a no-no. The dog trainer must reward the dog only when he is behaving properly. Do not worry, there will be plenty of opportunities
to do so. Unless, of course, the dog trainer/owner slacks off and chooses to reward inconsistently; or he breaks down further and treats the dog to praise, petting, and food, even if a behavior is inappropriate.

Emotional and energy outlet: Appropriate emotional outlets also bear some discussion in this context. Obviously, electronic training is designed to stop a dog from exhibiting misbehaviors, and help reward him for what the dog trainer/owner considers appropriate behavior. But if a dog cannot leave the yard, no reward can replace the freedom he has lost. In such cases, a dog must be given other appropriate outlets. This is why activities like running with the dog, or playing with him, are extremely important.

Redirection: Redirection is equally important, if not more so. In many electronic training situations, the dog trainer/owner needs to provide an alternate behavior for the dog. This redirection provides a known behavior pattern that the dog can fall back on, enabling the dog trainer/owner to reward him. A good example of such a behavior pattern is the ‘Sit,’ ‘Get your ball,’ or other command the dog already understands.

Have a plan: Overall, what one tries to do with redirection and reward is build better behavior in the dog. But when building anything, it is useful to have a blueprint – a plan that outlines specifically what to do under an array of circumstances.

Because of all the variables involved with electronic training, the dog trainer/owner needs to have such a plan. He needs to know exactly what he is going to do before a situation arises. Because, when it comes to training dogs, he needs to expect the unexpected. But if there is a plan in place, he will know exactly what to do.

The best plans are the simplest – the ones that ask the dog to do something basic. Pick something the dog has done many times before; perhaps a ‘Sit’ and ‘Stay’ command. Reliance on an old habit can bring a misbehaving dog – even a frightened or frazzled dog – back into the comfort zone. This will enable the dog trainer/owner to reward the dog, or regroup, should this become necessary.